{"id":1059,"date":"2021-06-10T08:32:45","date_gmt":"2021-06-10T08:32:45","guid":{"rendered":"https:\/\/disabledfamilybreaks.com\/?p=1059"},"modified":"2021-06-11T08:32:57","modified_gmt":"2021-06-11T08:32:57","slug":"beyond-the-beach-discover-cornwalls-less-crowded-attractions","status":"publish","type":"post","link":"https:\/\/disabledfamilybreaks.com\/beyond-the-beach-discover-cornwalls-less-crowded-attractions\/","title":{"rendered":"Beyond the beach: discover Cornwall\u2019s less-crowded attractions"},"content":{"rendered":"

Idyllic Cornwall is less so when you\u2019re stuck in traffic near the coast. Head inland for stunning walks, gardens and hilltop views<\/h2>\n

ach summer the narrow roads down to Kynance Cove and Porthcurno grind to a halt under the weight of holidaymakers all heading to the same \u201cisolated\u201d beaches. With the car parks full and the verges too, visitors and locals get hot under the collar in their stationary cars. Horns are honked, tempers fray, words are exchanged and the peace everyone is seeking is shattered.<\/span><\/p>\n

With this year set to be a year of holidaying at home, the usual honeypots will be busier than ever and there will probably be even more of a bunfight to find an unoccupied patch of golden sand. So, if you don\u2019t want to contribute to the overcrowding problem, or just want to avoid the crush, turn your sights inland, to some of Cornwall\u2019s slightly lesser-known gems.<\/p>\n

Head for higher ground<\/h3>\n

Cornwall is not known for its hills \u2013 its highest, Brown Willy on Bodmin Moor, stands at just 420 metres above sea level \u2013 yet, despite this, some of the county\u2019s best sites are on high ground. These are three of my favourites.<\/p>\n

From the peak of mainland Britain\u2019s most westerly hill, Chapel Carn Brea, it is possible to see the Isles of Scilly on a clear day. With the hill itself being the site of neolithic and bronze age graves and barrows, and with views to several other neolithic sites, this is ancient Cornwall at its wildest. Park in the National Trust car park and follow the well-signed path to the beacon.<\/p>\n

Carn Brea in Redruth (not to be confused with Chapel Carn Brea) is the site of another neolithic settlement. However, while Chapel Carn Brea is the jumping-off point for adventures into ancient history, Redruth\u2019s Carn Brea sits amid Cornwall\u2019s once-booming tin and copper mining district. At the top of the hill is the Bassett Monument, a tribute to Camborne\u2019s famous mining son, Francis Bassett, and just along from that is the gothic-looking Carn Brea Castle (formerly the Bassetts\u2019 hunting lodge and now a restaurant).<\/p>\n

From here there are views of the north and south coasts across a landscape shaped by mining history, complete with engine houses. You can also see Gwennap Pit, one of the county\u2019s many eccentric offerings: an open-air amphitheatre formed by mining activities, which became a favourite preaching pit for John Wesley. Carn Brea is circled by the Great Flat Lode trail, which follows the lines of a former mine tramway around and across the hill, for extended wandering among the heather and gorse. Use the car park at the top of Carnkie village and take the track up to Carn Brea Castle.<\/p>\n

Given that much of St Ives will be off-limits during the G7 summit (11-13 June), if you want a distanced overview of what\u2019s happening there, try a decent pair of binoculars from Godolphin and Tregonning hills, which are just two miles away from each other. Godolphin Hill offers commanding views over west Cornwall \u2013 on a clear day you can see St Michael\u2019s Mount and St Ives Bay \u2013 and from the top of Tregonning there are views across to Carbis Bay, where the main G7 action will be taking place. Park in the National Trust car park at Godolphin (booking essential).<\/p>\n

Seek out the smaller gardens<\/h3>\n

While queues for the Lost Gardens of Heligan and the Eden Project will be particularly long this year, Cornwall\u2019s smaller gardens (some of which are close to their famous relatives) offer a more peaceful escape.<\/p>\n

Pedn Billy is a 12-acre garden on the Helford River, next door to the subtropical paradises of Trebah and Glendurgan, both of which are also worth a visit. Pedn Billy is one of several small gardens in the Cornwall Wildlife Trust\u2019s open gardens programme, which runs between June and September. It has its own private beach and ancient woodlands, and a more laid-back, intimate feel than the bigger players. By visiting you will be supporting the Trust\u2019s work, protecting wildlife in and around Cornwall. Entry to most of the open gardens is \u00a35.<\/p>\n

Another of Cornwall\u2019s loveliest gardens is a stone\u2019s throw from Tintagel Castle. St Nectan\u2019s Glen is an overlooked gem with an 18-metre waterfall, woodland walks and shaded valleys, a tiny hermitage and an arbour that looks like something straight out of Middle-earth. It\u2019s a site heavy on atmosphere, with the hermitage carved into the rocks, the Celtic vibe of faerie stacks (small piles of stacked stones) and trees hung with ribbons (adult \u00a35.95, child \u00a34.70).<\/p>\n

Take to the Cornish Alps<\/h3>\n
\n

Less well known than Cornwall\u2019s tin mining heritage and ancient sites is Clay Country, the villages and countryside around St Austell. The stark white and green clay tips \u2013 the spoil from the china clay industry \u2013 give the area its nickname, and the Cornish Alps warrant exploration.<\/p>\n

Any other year I would be recommending a visit to Kneehigh Theatre\u2019s Asylum, the huge tent in which the iconic theatre company staged some of its legendary performances. Sadly, last week Kneehigh announced that the company is winding down, though its legacy lives on in part through the free Walk With Me app, a series of guided story walks including, including Clay Country and the outer estate of Eden.<\/p>\n

Each of the walks is accompanied by a series of short audio stories inspired by people who live in the area, which are fantastical, moving and amusing in equal measure, with one foot in the truth and the other in fiction. The stories play themselves as you reach GPS marks on the route.<\/p>\n

Find an alternative to the coast path<\/h3>\n

The Cornish section of the South West Coast Path is one of the county\u2019s most heavily trodden walking trails, and its 330 miles have taken a particular pounding over lockdown. But there are plenty of stunning alternatives away from the coast.<\/p>\n

The Saints\u2019 Way is a 27-mile route from Padstow on the north coast to Fowey on the south. Most walkers do it in two or three days, though it is possible to complete the walk in smaller sections \u2013 or just pick out the best bits, such as the stretch between Lanivet and Luxulyan. As you\u2019d expect with a former pilgrimage route, there are plenty of churches along the way, which make good stopping points. Though the route is marked with Celtic cross markers, it is still not always immediately obvious which route to take, socareful planning is advised.<\/p>\n

The Tinner\u2019s Way, between St Just and St Ives, is crammed with ancient sites, and in navigating the rugged north coast and crossing the high moors you\u2019ll encounter the ancient stone circles, quoits and menhirs for which West Penwith is known, including the 5,000-year-old Ch\u00fbn Quoit and the distinctive holed M\u00ean-an-Tol. This track has been walked since the bronze age and it shows in the sunken lanes and well-trodden paths. Its 18 miles are better signposted and shorter than the Saint\u2019s Way, and can be walked in a single day, though again, many choose to do it in sections. Start the walk at Priest\u2019s Cove, Cape Cornwall.<\/p>\n

For more walks both inland and coastal, the iWalkCornwall app has more than 250 walks that can be downloaded at \u00a32.99 a walk.<\/p>\n

And if you do want a beach<\/h3>\n

Without a boat or kayak, it may be difficult to find a hidden, empty beach in Cornwall this summer, but there are a few secret spots on known beaches that others may have overlooked.<\/p>\n

During the 18th and 19th centuries, there was a somewhat eccentric craze for creating outdoor baths \u2013 tidal pools cut into the rocks in which bathers could experience the healing power of cold sea water. Several of these can be found at Portreath on the north coast. Lady Basset\u2019s baths is a set of seven manmade tidal pools, all at different heights to catch the falling tide. If you don\u2019t fancy braving the rips and currents of Cornwall\u2019s north coast, these genteel baths offer a different way of experiencing the coast \u2013 and can be enjoyed with a cocktail at low tide.<\/p>\n

Lady Basset\u2019s baths are great if you want to sit and admire the view from your own personal rock bath, though they aren\u2019t large enough to swim in. If you fancy a sea swim without getting into the sea, several Cornish beaches boast coastal pools, including at Bude and Mousehole, and the beautiful art deco lido, the Jubilee Pool at Penzance. One of these, Chapel Rock tidal pool, is just a few miles up the coast from Portreath, at Perranporth. Most visitors stay on the sand, though head for the rock with the black and white St Piran\u2019s flag to find this tucked-away bathing pool.<\/p>\n

And if you\u2019re determined to find your patch of golden sand, while the beach at Perranporth directly in front of the town heaves in high season, there are always quiet corners to be found if you head away from the town along the three-miles of sand. Cornwall\u2019s beaches tend to reward the determined and the tide-aware, so a quiet spot is often just round the corner.<\/p>\n<\/div>\n

Source: https:\/\/www.theguardian.com\/travel\/2021\/jun\/10\/beyond-the-beach-discover-cornwalls-less-crowded-attractions<\/a><\/p>\n","protected":false},"excerpt":{"rendered":"

Idyllic Cornwall is less so when you\u2019re stuck in traffic near the coast. Head inland<\/p>\n","protected":false},"author":1,"featured_media":1060,"comment_status":"open","ping_status":"open","sticky":false,"template":"","format":"standard","meta":{"spay_email":""},"categories":[16],"tags":[],"jetpack_featured_media_url":"https:\/\/i1.wp.com\/disabledfamilybreaks.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2021\/06\/Cornwall.jpg?fit=2040%2C1224&ssl=1","_links":{"self":[{"href":"https:\/\/disabledfamilybreaks.com\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/posts\/1059"}],"collection":[{"href":"https:\/\/disabledfamilybreaks.com\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/posts"}],"about":[{"href":"https:\/\/disabledfamilybreaks.com\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/types\/post"}],"author":[{"embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/disabledfamilybreaks.com\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/users\/1"}],"replies":[{"embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/disabledfamilybreaks.com\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/comments?post=1059"}],"version-history":[{"count":0,"href":"https:\/\/disabledfamilybreaks.com\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/posts\/1059\/revisions"}],"wp:featuredmedia":[{"embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/disabledfamilybreaks.com\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/media\/1060"}],"wp:attachment":[{"href":"https:\/\/disabledfamilybreaks.com\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/media?parent=1059"}],"wp:term":[{"taxonomy":"category","embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/disabledfamilybreaks.com\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/categories?post=1059"},{"taxonomy":"post_tag","embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/disabledfamilybreaks.com\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/tags?post=1059"}],"curies":[{"name":"wp","href":"https:\/\/api.w.org\/{rel}","templated":true}]}}